WATCH A MODERN Grand Prix on the telly and you’d be forgiven for dismissing motor racing as a soulless, sanitised procession. It wasn’t always this way. History tells of a legendary race where the foolishly fearless drove a thousand miles (1600km) from Brescia to Rome and back again, on public roads, sometimes in total darkness. Welcome to the Mille Miglia.

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For 31 war-interrupted years from 1927 until 1957, the Mille Miglia legend grew, becoming one of the most prestigious dates on the motorsport calendar. Enzo Ferrari once called it ‘The most beautiful race in the world’. Although no longer a point to point speed race it lives on as a precision time driving event and the finest mobile motorsport museum around.

As part of its centenary celebrations, Alfa Romeo fittingly chose the Mille Miglia as a promotional tool for its new Giulietta, and they’ve invited us to drive it alongside the 6Cs and Giulietta Sprints of the past. We collect ours from the Museo Storico Alfa Romeo in Arese, roughly 10km outside Milan. A once industrious production facility and former home to design house Centro Stile, it’s now little more than a charmingly overgrown footnote in Alfa Romeo history. Late flights mean we see just a handful of the cars on display, but enough to convince me that it’s a must see for Alfisti and automotive enthusiasts alike.

At the hotel in Brescia, we’re handed a media pack containing official stickers for our Giulietta’s bonnet and windscreen, a pre-mapped SD card for the integrated satnav and a road route book so thick, you could go hunting with it. I had a feeling all would be very useful over the three-day event.

Day One: Brescia – The start

You don’t have to go far in Italy to get a sense of the way things were. The place is steeped in history. Ancient ruins, dome-roofed cathedrals and thousand-year-old walled villages are the norm here. It’s not just in the architecture. When the opportunity arises, Italians themselves display a profound sense of respect for history, heritage and tradition. And they’re especially proud of the Mille Miglia.

I’m standing in the Piazza Vittoria staring at a row of Aston Martins from before they were beautiful, Ferraris from before they were ugly and BMWs from before there were noise regulations. All around me, the Brescians have gathered to pay homage to beloved Ferraris, Maseratis, Cisitalias, Alfas, Lancias and Fiats of yesteryear. I witness the generational transfer of automotive fanaticism as a grinning grandfather, with flag-waving grandson in tow, lovingly caresses a Fiat 8V Zagato with his eyes. In between the jeans and sneakers are suited men and skirted women elegantly perched on presumably industrial strength high heels – cobbled streets do abound. Even annoyingly cool teenagers are proudly sporting Mille Miglia branded garb.